Dryness. Tightness. Redness. Flaking. When retinol goes wrong, the cause is usually the routine around it.
I see it in clinic all the time. Someone starts retinol, uses it every night from day one, pairs it with an acid toner or an exfoliating scrub, and within a fortnight their skin is sore and peeling. They decide retinol isn't for them and give up on one of the most researched skincare ingredients we have for fine lines, texture and tone.
Retinol rewards patience. Build it up gradually, layer it with purpose and support your skin barrier along the way, and your skin has the best chance of getting the results without the backlash.
Here's how to build your retinol routine with Dr Somji Skincare, whether you're brand new to retinol or ready for the full stack.
Which Dr Somji products contain retinol?
Four products in our encapsulated retinol collection contain retinol, and each one has a different job:
- Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate - targeted treatment for fine lines and loss of firmness
- Anti-Dark Spot Concentrate - targeted treatment for pigmentation and uneven tone
- Signature Serum - whole-face retinol with our SOM1X® barrier complex
- Night Recovery Cream - overnight recovery, a further layer of retinol and SOM1X®
How our retinol works
At Dr Somji Skincare, we use encapsulated retinol. The technology releases the ingredient gradually into the skin, helping to maximise efficacy while minimising the potential for irritation. Retinol supports collagen and elastin, helping to improve firmness, elasticity, texture and tone while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The result is smoother, firmer, more radiant-looking skin.
Signature Serum and Night Recovery Cream also contain SOM1X®, our proprietary complex of Centella, marine probiotics, ceramides, MSM, blackcurrant seed oil and milk thistle extract. It supports the skin barrier, reduces moisture loss and helps counteract the irritation that retinol and other actives can cause.
Our Concentrates are lightweight, targeted formulas applied only where you need them, so they don't contain SOM1X®. That's why I always recommend smoothing Signature Serum over the top: it brings barrier support into every routine that includes a Concentrate.
Find your starting point
Be honest about where your skin is today. You can always move up a stage, and there's no prize for getting there faster.
1. NEW TO RETINOL: Start with one product and build your tolerance
If you're new to retinol, start with Signature Serum once a week for the first two weeks. This gives your skin time to adjust to retinol, while SOM1X® works alongside it to support tolerance. If your skin is happy, increase to three nights a week for weeks three and four, then gradually build towards nightly use.
PM: Cleanse → Signature Serum → moisturiser
For now, skip the Concentrates and Night Recovery Cream.
Some mild dryness or sensitivity can happen while your skin adjusts. This is known as retinisation. If your skin feels uncomfortable, reduce how often you use it and build back up more slowly. Once your skin is comfortable with Signature Serum most nights, you're ready to start building your stack.
2. RETINOL REGULAR: Ready to target a specific concern
If you already use retinol consistently and your skin is well adapted, add a Concentrate for the concern you want to focus on: Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate for fine lines and firmness, Anti-Dark Spot Concentrate for pigmentation, or both.
Apply 2-3 drops of Concentrate to the areas that need it, then follow with Signature Serum all over the face, neck and décolleté.
PM: Cleanse → Concentrate → Signature Serum
If you're using both Concentrates, apply each one to its own zone - for example, Anti-Wrinkle across the forehead and around the eyes, and Anti-Dark Spot over areas of pigmentation.
3. VERY EXPERIENCED: The full stack
If your skin is highly experienced with retinol and comfortable with a Concentrate and Signature Serum every night, you can work towards the full three-product evening stack by adding Night Recovery Cream as your final step.
Every evening: Cleanse → Concentrate → Signature Serum → Night Recovery Cream
Think of it as target, treat, recover. That's three complementary layers of encapsulated retinol, each with its own role: the Concentrate targets your concern, Signature Serum extends the treatment across the whole face and protects the barrier, and Night Recovery Cream seals everything in and restores the skin overnight. Both Signature Serum and Night Recovery Cream contain the full SOM1X® complex to help minimise irritation. In independent user trials, more than 97%* of participants said their skin felt deeply hydrated, soft and smooth on waking after using Night Recovery Cream.
For very well-adapted skin, Signature Serum can also be used in the morning under SPF.
My rules for retinol
More isn't always better. Build frequency and layers only as fast as your skin allows.
Your skin doesn't need to peel for retinol to work. If it feels uncomfortable, use it less often and build back up slowly.
Keep exfoliants away from retinol nights. That includes exfoliating acids and physical scrubs.
Wear SPF every morning. Retinol makes daily sun protection essential. Our Vitamin C Daily Defence Moisturiser SPF30 combines moisturisation, antioxidant support and SPF in one morning step.
Retinol isn't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
FAQs
How often should I use Signature Serum?
New to retinol: start once a week and gradually build to every night.
Retinol regular: every evening, layered over your Concentrate.
Very experienced: every evening as part of the full stack. For well-adapted skin, it can also be used in the morning under SPF.
Can I use more than one Concentrate at a time?
Yes, once your skin is well adapted to retinol. Apply each Concentrate to the area that needs it, then smooth Signature Serum over the whole face.
Is some dryness normal when I start?
Mild dryness or sensitivity can happen during retinisation, while your skin adjusts. Reduce how often you use retinol and build back up more slowly. If irritation is significant or doesn't settle, stop and speak to a pharmacist, your GP or a dermatologist.
Can I use acids or exfoliants with retinol?
Keep exfoliating acids and physical exfoliants for nights when you're not using retinol.
Which products should I buy first?
If you're new to retinol, Signature Serum is all you need to start. Add a Concentrate once your skin is comfortable, and Night Recovery Cream when you're ready for the full stack.
Build it slowly. Layer it with purpose.
Retinol works best as a long-term habit. Start where your skin is, support the barrier at every stage and add layers only when your skin is ready. That's how you keep using retinol for long enough to see what it can really do.
Shop the encapsulated retinol collection
*Independent user trial, 4 weeks usage, 60 participants.
